Painting Process
Photo by Rhod Lauffer
My paintings are all "Oil on Panel". I don't currently use canvas, as I like to be able to push against the surface while painting for different effects. Also, I don't like the texture, preferring a flat surface. Panels are made from "Masonite" or hardboard. I buy 4' X 8' sheets that are approximately 1/4" to 3/16" thick and are ripped on a table saw to the desired size. The obvious limits to a finished painting size using hardboard is 4' X 8'. The cut panels are then sanded with a random orbital sander which takes off the shiny factory pressed finish. This allows better adhesion of the gesso or primer. Gesso is basically a primer, in this case acrylic, that historically contained marble dust to give it the brilliant white. Nowadays, it's usually titanium or zinc that is used. Black gesso can also be purchased. Painting on raw material without a primer is risky, as the oils from the paint migrate to the substrate and weaken it. Using a primer increases the bond and the painting can be "conserved" or repaired at a future date if needed. I do paint on paper too, but the paper is also gessoed. The only variance from this is in monotypes, which are usually printed on paper with oil based inks or paints. See my "Monotypes" tab for info on the process.
I coat the panels with "Liquitex" brand acrylic gesso, which is fine for oil paints. I find the extra money for a good gesso is worth it. Each panel is coated smooth, sometimes sanding between coats if necessary. I usually coat each panel three times, waiting at least several hours between coats, depending on drying conditions. The last coat is sanded after waiting until the next day with the same 80 grit paper which knocks down any ridges, gives a smooth finish, but one that has "tooth" or a roughness that allows the paint to mechanically bond as well as chemically bond to the surface.
The paint I use is a Windsor&Newton british made product along with some Daler-Rowney colors. I use Windsor& Newton linseed oil and "Turpenoid natural" as a brush cleaner. I usually wear disposable gloves, but the Turpenoid cleans hands well and can be used as a thinner. This is a non-toxic product. I don't use turpentine, which is unhealthy. And I use mineral spirits sparingly, all with adequate ventillation. I also don't use toxic colors of paint, such as lead containing "Flake White" or the true cadmiums, which should only used with caution.
I coat the panels with "Liquitex" brand acrylic gesso, which is fine for oil paints. I find the extra money for a good gesso is worth it. Each panel is coated smooth, sometimes sanding between coats if necessary. I usually coat each panel three times, waiting at least several hours between coats, depending on drying conditions. The last coat is sanded after waiting until the next day with the same 80 grit paper which knocks down any ridges, gives a smooth finish, but one that has "tooth" or a roughness that allows the paint to mechanically bond as well as chemically bond to the surface.
The paint I use is a Windsor&Newton british made product along with some Daler-Rowney colors. I use Windsor& Newton linseed oil and "Turpenoid natural" as a brush cleaner. I usually wear disposable gloves, but the Turpenoid cleans hands well and can be used as a thinner. This is a non-toxic product. I don't use turpentine, which is unhealthy. And I use mineral spirits sparingly, all with adequate ventillation. I also don't use toxic colors of paint, such as lead containing "Flake White" or the true cadmiums, which should only used with caution.
